In my own “reproductions” of these modules, I wanted to stay as close to the original as possible. For example, I also wanted to be able to connect the power supply of the modules in the same way as with the original ‘Silberlingen’. Metal clips are pushed between the modules for this purpose. By now, many modules had been built and the question was asked more and more regularly whether these functional replicas were not for sale somewhere.
Meanwhile, ready-built and tested modules are listed in the online catalog. However, for those who have some knitting skills, and can solder a little, even more affordable building kits are now available.
The building instructions for these kits can be found on this page. Since the various modules differ little in construction and parts used, one common description suffices. There is also an instruction video that clearly shows the few possibly difficult issues (such as attaching the metal strips to the sides of the housing, or soldering a potentiometer to the board).
The construction kits in the electronics catalog are easy to order. Because only 100% custom-made products are supplied on request, there is no stock and no ‘shopping basket’ with payment options. Orders are always placed in consultation with no immediate purchase obligation or payment. Orders or requests can be made via the contact form. I will then send you an overview of the order with the payment options. If you would like to order one or more construction kits, simply copy and email the table on the right, indicating in the first column how many construction kits you would like. I will then contact you as soon as possible!
| Amount | Number | Kit |
| 0 | 362 | Monoflop |
| 0 | 363 | Flipflop |
| 0 | 364 | AND-NAND |
| 0 | 371 | Dual AND-NAND |
| 0 | 365 | OR-NOR |
| 0 | 372 | Dual OR-NOR |
| 0 | 370 | Dual XOR-XNOR |
| 0 | 366 | Dual Dyn-AND |
| 0 | 367 | Grundbaustein |
Tip: It is convenient to deposit the contents of the bag in a container
That way everything can be found quickly in a moment and no components get lost
In the “Silberling” construction kit are the housing with cover and front plate of the chosen module. Also included are a circuit board and all parts required for construction. The schematic of the module and a sketch of the component arrangement can be downloaded below as a PDF document. The assembly instructions are in Dutch, English and German.
While some soldering experience is required, the assembly is certainly not very difficult. Do not use too much soldering tin and do not solder too long in one place. Some parts, such as the LED or the potentiometer (on the differential amplifier or Flipflop) can break if they get too hot. Also, when soldering the metal strips on the case, proceed briskly to avoid melting or deformation of the plastic.
The pictures in the step-by-step plan below are from a video that hopefully illustrates building a “Silberling” in an illuminating way. Of course I am always at your service with advice if something doesn't work right away.
The package contains two short (~10 cm) and two longer (~13 cm) metal strips. These will form the power supply connections in a moment. They are applied to the sides of the 3D printed module case.
Start with the two longer strips. These run vertically, on the bottom through the opening of the two "bridges. Each metal strip is pushed through a small slot on the short side of the case. Let the strip extend the same length on both sides (illustration). You can easily check whether the length on both sides is (approximately) the same with a screwdriver. Now bend up the protruding ends and fold them back inward, over the wall of the housing. Repeat with the other long metal strip.
The intersections of the metal strips on the bottom of the case should be soldered. Be careful not to overheat the strips in the process, as this may melt and deform the plastic of the back of the case.
Follow the component layout to solder the various components on the board. Do the low, lying down, components (resistors and diodes) first. Then the electrolytics and transistors and any resistors to be “standing”. Save some of the cut-off wires to mount the potentiometer (rotary knob, as on the Monoflop and ‘Grundbaustein’). Two wire ends are also needed to solder the circuit board to the metal strips in the housing.
The LED is mounted on the other side of the circuit board (front side). Note the polarity: the square island on the circuit board indicates the minus (cathode). The LED has a shorter mounting wire on this side. Also, the collar the LED has a straight plane on this side. Push the LED at the top of the circuit board through the holes, temporarily place the faceplate on top and push the LED from behind well through the hole in the faceplate. Turn this assembly over and solder the LED on the component side of the PCB. This will mount the LED high enough so that it sticks well through the hole in the front panel.
PTN2-10 sockets are used to connect the fischertechnik plugs. Previously, these were supplied separately, but mounting and then properly aligning the sockets behind the holes in the front panel was not always easy. This was mainly because every batch of sockets I received had a different diameter solder pin, and some sockets fit very loosely in the holes, while others were barely able to be inserted through the holes.
For this reason, I decided to pre-assemble the sockets myself. You will therefore receive a circuit board on which the necessary sockets have already been mounted. You only need to solder the remaining components.
Before your module can be put into service, the power connection points (on the left and right sides of the circuit board) must be connected to the corresponding metal strips on the sides of the housing. There are two ways to do this:
The last photo in the series above shows closing the housing. The small screws fall into the holes most easily if we first “prime” them with a Phillips screwdriver. Do not over-tighten the screws. The screw tubes in the cover might break off. If that should happen, the housing can also be sealed with a few drops of super glue.
Congratulations! You have created your very own “Silberling”! I wish you much experimentation fun with these electronics modules!
